Excerpt: LOUIS VUITTON. FALL 2022 RTW - PARIS FASHION WEEK.



(Model:  Raelynn Bumgardner for Louis Vuitton 2022)


 "...And even though we may see these fixations of the human condition gloomy and even nihilistic in its observation, Nicolas Ghesquière's creative direction for the fashion powerhouse Louis Vuitton has offered many glimpses to his positive and Utopian inspired styles that, in its hope of something new and inspiring can rise from the ashes.  Yes, this might sound dramatic, at least from a fictional sense to what Ghesquière has subscribed with many of his prior collections, as a designer who turned storied concepts into a reality, to which Ghesquière, during his tenure with Louis Vuitton has excelled.  Combining his fusion of 1950's Utopian modernist visuals of an age when Atomic energy and the discovery of the computer chip gave us hope, through to 1960's counter culture stylizations, with dashes of 1970's and 1980's hedonism.

But, as the spectra of a new Cold War looms and a return to living under the shadow of nuclear annihilation once again is a reality,  Ghesquière for his Fall 2022 collection has reinvigorated that much loved 70's and 80's hedonist appeal, which before the pandemic and throughout the lockdowns we have seen a return to the eros.  And in past seasons Ghesquière has shown to be a master in compressing the said era's into his defined futurism looks.  His new collection offers a heavily textured and layered affair, 47 styles in total, reworking 1980's formal attire with preppy and avant-garde tweaks, which although may sound paradoxical, the combination is not overly dramatic.  With a mix of the petticoat inspired skirts, revealed for Louis Vuitton's Spring 2022 collection, his oversized suiting styles ensure that the collection is not overly conservative. However, compared to Ghesquière's futurist styled concepts of past seasons, it does feel toned down and less experimental than previous showings..."

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(A.Glass 2022)

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