Excerpt: JUNYA WATANABE. FALL 2022 - TOKYO
"Junya Watanabe's monozukuri techniques continue on after nearly two decades of showing at Paris Fashion week, debuting in 1993 for his Tokyo showing. The illusive and very private Japanese designer has been constant in his reworking popular culture influences as a template for his creative designs, through a Japanese perspective of borrowing, and I say this in the most respectful manner, while claiming concepts and ideas as their own. An ingrained trait to which the Japanese have honed and mastered after hundred of years of practice, when Ch'an Buddhist masters from China arrived onto Japan in the 4th Century, offering calligraphy, art and a Buddhist school of thought that had branched off from esoteric Buddhism, that we now know as Zen Buddhism. Distantly a Japanese affair, yet it had originated from afar. And it is this Japanese word monozukuri, which, on the many rare occasions he has been interviewed, Watanabe has emphasized, as a benchmark for his work, which is made up of two Japanese phrases, “thing” (mono) and “to grow” (zukuri). In similarity, it would be the western term/s evolve, adjust or adapt in being creative.
As noted with my 2022 reviews, the gothic and avant-garde have made spectacular return to the runway, that after two years of a global pandemic, the industry, like everything else, hasn't returned to normal. Which could be an indication or reflection of the current state of our society, as it has descended into a tumultuous period of history..."
Full review: https://chiasmusmagazine.blogspot.com/2022/03/junya-watanabe-fall-2022-tokyo.html
(A.Glass 2022)
Spring 2023 review soon
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