From the Chiasmus Archive: "Maison Margiela Couture ‘Artisanal’ Fall 2017 Fall – Paris." July 8, 2017 by A.Glass

 

(Images from www.thecut.com Maison Margiela /Courtesy of Press Office)

John Galliano surrealist perspectives within Haute Couture continues.  As described by the designer himself, it is a desire to restructure what glamor means without constraint.  A reality transfused under Maison Margiela artisan collections, how long can this be pursued  with the corporate world of conglomerate fashion houses is disputable.  Yet, Galliano is making a point about exploring a perspective of glamor in a dramatically changing world and it’s relevance.  The rushed beautification, a speedy preparation for women in a fast paced, virtual interactive world – that at times can be an a illusion via social networks.  A display of, in detailed artisan sense, the hurried aesthetics – of course the question is asked by Galliano.  Is there glamor in all that?  In which he has cleverly taken an artistic idealism, that is not part of  Couture fashion, which is the idea that one should find beauty in everything.  And as mentioned, it is solely an idealism attributed to surrealistic art, but not known in fashion to make a point that a rushed and messy morning ‘makeup’ could look glamorous.

Maison Margiela Fall 2017 collection via John Galliano with his social and artistic commentary is less shock value but more a poignant creative expression about our everyday reality, as noted with Maison Margiela – Couture Spring 2017 Galliano has achieved this one again with this Fall 20017 collection.  It is all statement, weaved together in a reworked version of haute couture.  Re-cut and remodeled coats, blouses, dresses.  All staked together within it’s artesian appeal.  It all seems to fit and make sense.  The clothes don’t drape or look slouched, more so, as devised by Galliano the person wearing, put it on slightly distorted – but not intentional.  And it works.  There is some 1950s infused glamor, via the metallic/suede cowboy boots.    The color palette is light and well structured for this collection, not intrusive or harsh.  Important when displaying such highly detailed work.

A truly unique and interesting collection for Maison Margiela ‘Artisanal’ Fall 2017, whether designers can change and update fashion, rather than large fashion houses guided by forecasts and profits.  Is anyone's guess.  Haute Couture is not couture fashion of yesteryear.  The rules are being bent, in someways in a pointless array.  But the risk taking is paramount in creativity.  John Galliano as a master designer has achieved the risqué within the high end of fashion.

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(A.Glass 2017)