From the Chiasmus Archive: Rick Owens men’s Fall 2018 – Paris Fashion Week. January 23, 2018 CHIASMUS MAGAZINE BLOG

 

(Images Vogue.com)

Rick Owens Fall 2018 collection is the most direct and intense to date.  Moving away from the light on spectrum and serenity from previous shows (although the militaristic and survivalist edge was seen at his Spring Summer 2017 show), there is more anger here.  But, as an interesting aspect and study of anger it becomes a conditioning and awareness of the turmoil of life, whether manifested from the self or observed as the external.   It is at times the futility of existence and its creative expressions which feels endless in its burden, such is Owen’s Fall 2018 collection titled “Sisyphus” after the Greek myth of the king that attempted to trick the Gods.  His punishment in the underworld of Hades, was to roll a boulder up a hill, only to have it tumble back down, in its vain attempt again ad infinitum.  A punishment of frustration as an endeavor which holds no meaning or purpose, which is the myth of Sisyphus.

This is also a return to the more darker and dystpoic shows of the past, as Rick Owens has maintained the relevance of a sombre and meaningful aspect of his collections.  As I have reviewed and commented from previous Owens shows, this does not need to be viewed as a negative.  Even at times anger may not always be seen in its totality as a disadvantage.  Depending on how it is crafted, most times than not it is misdirected.  However in art, it can be crafted as a sharpened perspective of the frustrations that one may feel of the self.  A search for meaning is an arduous and at times burdensome affair.  That may never be solved.  Art, design and fashion is way of managing the imposed disappointments we may have with life.  So we continue on.  For Owens’s Fall 2018 collection, as mentioned in my June 23rd 2017 review of  Rick Owens men’s Spring Summer 2018 – Paris Fashion Week  it holds the same resonance, please refer:

“Rick Owens is a designer living in his own creative paradox.  As fashion on a global scale, like most industries in an monetary inflated world, is now overblown.  Excessive and in most cases pointless.  Originality, uniqueness and challenging designs have been suppressed with aspirations of fame – without the effort…To maintain influence and prestige in fashion, to those who have made it, such as Owens, one needs to, rather than push forward when he/she has already succeeded, is now to contradict.   And the contradiction is from the self, which means you can change ideas, even it confuses the fan base – but at times this is a healthy disposition.  Homogeneity, which is the biggest curse against creativity….”

The militaristic stylized wear and survivalist aesthetics remain as the main theme for Rick Owens men’s Fall 2018 collection.  Chopped up and re-cut styles of sleeveless tops, which drape over cargo and over sized shorts.  The unpicking of stylized loose stitching, with intricate fraying is an innovating look, also seen as an accessory on the subtly crafted sneakers.  Long military style coats, with tactical utility and combat inspired belts and boots. With mainly wool blends, the texture of the fabric for Owens Fall 2018 collection radiates a reinforced strength.  Tough, durable and resilient.  The color palette is set from cream, various shades of drab greens, dark navy blues, touches of maroon.  Set against neural grays, black and white.