EXCERPT: SAINT LAURENT. RESORT 2023


"...I was surprised, as much as everyone when Alexandro Michele  of Gucci stepped down as creative director, and if l think back to when the global lockdowns occurred nearly three years ago, to which he wrote a heartful open letter that, in retrospective, was about how the pandemic could've made the fashion industry look at itself.  Michele's idealism and sincerity was cast aside when Kering, a publicly held entity and the holding company of Gucci pushed to keep their mega sales going in the year that followed.  And it was Michele's Spring 2022 Los Angeles show which may have been the straw that broke the camel's back, in light of the controversial Gucci movie (released at the same time) and a family that is still in dispute with its own namesake.  

Hence, these are the hungry ghosts that are never at rest when the living are not at peace, they will continue to haunt us.  And a legacy of suffering should be laid to rest.    Does Anthony Vaccarello have the same dilemma with Yves Saint Laurent?   That is an important question, which one should ask.  In the sense, for the many years that I have been reviewing Saint Laurent shows, I've noticed a fascination with the cultism of broken dreams and aspirations, which very much was an imprint of a turbulent and excessive period that was the 1970's and 1980's..."

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(A.Glass 2023) 

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