EXCERPT: SAINT LAURENT. RESORT 2023

 

...Hence, these are the hungry ghosts that are never at rest when the living are not at peace, they will continue to haunt us.  And a legacy of suffering should be laid to rest.    Does Anthony Vaccarello have the same dilemma with Yves Saint Laurent?   That is an important question, which one should ask.  In the sense, for the many years that I have been reviewing Saint Laurent shows, I've noticed a fascination with the cultism of broken dreams and aspirations, which very much was an imprint of a turbulent and excessive period that was the 1970's and 1980's.  Yet, while Vaccarello inscribes the late Yves Saint Laurent's hedonistic lavishness, which encapsulated the pinnacle of late 70's epicureanism.  There does appear to be a preoccupation of recopying those restless apparitions of the said eras.

  

For Vaccarello's Resort 2023 collection which is in prelude to the coming Spring showing, offers a glimpse into his Saint Laurent engine.  And at this point he is showing no signs of slowing down or deviating from his homage to the Eros of forty years ago.  But, the dark and gothic overtures of previous Vaccarello looks remain as his mainstay trend of 2023.   Yes, it maybe a very dark year unfolding in front of us all, as we enter into a period, that even with a 70's esque reflection, could be the darkest in history under the potentiality of nuclear war, a persistent virus and global climate events...."

Full review:  https://chiasmusmagazine.blogspot.com/2023/01/saint-laurent-resort-2023.html

(A.Glass 2023)