Excerpt: SAINT LAURENT. SPRING 2021 RTW

"...For his latest collection, which includes a short 10min movie, it is more akin of 60's retro futurist rather than previously collections that portrayed a darker cult like fixture of hippie doomsday cultism, yet, in this fusion of a 1960s alternative time line, it does appear that Vaccarello has transfused it onto a 21st Century gothic – so it still feels like an end-of-the-world doomy and why not?  2019 to date is all about viruses, civil unrest and cold war redux. To which Vaccarello has created a mostly black and white backdrop of achromatic dualities that, from nature, belong to the same eminence.  As non-colors they both contemplate a balance, one reflects light, the other, without any discrimination, absorbs it.  The whole collection has been over layered with some of the finest crafted clothing you would expect from the prestigious fashion house, yet it is not as vampy as previous seasons, rather the silhouette cast reveals an edge of solemnity, to which Vaccarello's lingerie styled outwear styles, combined with Art Nouveau inspired jewelry, courtesy of designer Claude Lalanna, maintains its overall prophetic appeal.  At over 80 pieces,  it is one of the larger collections in lieu of 2021.

So yes, we can be nostalgic of the tumultuous period that was the 1960s and 1970s, drawing from some of its romanticism, but what is not learned from the past, often repeats." 

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Full review: https://chiasmusmagazine.blogspot.com/2021/01/saint-laurant-spring-2021-rtw.html 

(A.Glass 2021)