EXCERPT: SAINT LAURENT. RESORT 2023
"....Vaccarello, like most of his collections for Saint Laurent, has idealized the fatalism of the human condition, more so the feminine, of which, like the Fallen Caryatid and its burden, mourns both life and death - while it desires an aspiration of fame and fortune, that one can fall, if it does not transpire, into that boulevard of broken dreams. So, the somber appeal for his soon-to-be Spring 2023 collection is evident throughout, with styles that range from full length cocktail dresses, off the shoulder short dresses and boudoir inspired lingerie. Despite the amount of black layered over the collection, it is also intermixed with earthy palette tones. One should also note Vaccarello's androgynous fluidity, in its representing of the masculine.
The latest array from Vaccarello is of a more serious disposition than previous seasons, with its sexual mystique toned down. It does feel a lot more restrained and intense. Maybe telling of the year ahead."
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Full review: chiasmusmagazine.blogspot.com/2023/01/saint-laurent-resort-2023.html
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