EXCERPT: SAINT LAURENT. FALL READY-TO-WEAR 2023 - PARIS FASHION WEEK

 

...Vaccarello's Fall 2023 collection has moved on from those fallen stars in their hopes and aspirations, planting itself into the ruthless side of the late 1980's; be it corporate raiders and the elevation of sexual power, played out in numerous Hollywood productions of that time. It was shoulder pads and power suits and the beginning of the rise of the super model as we all entered the 1990's.   

It is not an attractive collection as opposed to Vaccarello's 70's and early 80's stylizations for the famous fashion brand,  rather Vaccarello has run deep into inspiration from the late Ives Saint Laurent and then later Tom Ford's sexualized dominatrix appeal, when both designers reflected wealth and power as a primary aesthetic of the feminine.  And it would be at the strike of a pen, you could lose your job.  Thus, the corporate world's brutal reliance and feverish motivation of greed, as Wall Street pumped and dumped.  In a mostly male dominated work place, with the many women trying to secure a slice of that pie.  Power dressing was very much the yuppy statement of success, and as the sexual revolution petered out into the late 80's,  sex became more of a tool..."

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Full review:  chiasmusmagazine.blogspot.com/2023/03/saint-laurent-fall-ready-to-wear-2023.html

(A.Glass 2023)