From the Chiasmus archive: "Juun.J Fall 2017 - Paris Fashion Week"

In 2007 Juun. J launched his signature brand at Paris Fashion Week. From that point onward, he has been able to establish a dedicated following within the Avant-garde fashion world. Showcasing his August/Winter 2017 collection at this years Paris Fashion Week, is Juun. J’s ten year anniversary since his first Paris show. It should also be noted that what holds as a distinct fashion statement for the designer is the trench-coat. As an anniversary show for AW2017, the collections from the last ten years have been melded into a unique ensemble, split equally between female and male models. And as mentioned it is his unambiguous trench-coat, seen as an exaggerated and over-sized style that has been distantly Juun. J’s for more than a decade. 

For this collection the colour palette remains the same, albeit more refined over the last ten years with Juun. J’s use of the various khaki colours, combined with the military (olive) green and camel. Also seen is the velvet inspired midnight blues and purple. The Avant-garde achromatic use of black and white was used extensively for this AW2017 collection. As viewed with the opening of the show, when the first female model sets the stage for Juun. J’s anniversary Paris collection, wearing an all black leather track suit with its accompanying trench-coat and baseball cap. And in closing the same outfit but in all white with softer fabric textures. Possibly this could be seen as the Korean designer’s respect to duality or Yin and Yang. 

Juun. J’s Autumn/Winter 2017 collection represents a darker and militaristic feel than previous collections. There is a underlining solemnity within his stylized, urban combat aesthetics. Influenced by military and tactical clothing, styled into an inflated look, with the collection maintaining it’s over sized form. Cargo-pockets are ballooned and layered, belt straps which drape from backpacks, coats, trousers and skirts. A combination of rigidness and fluidity, which in turn creates a poignant impression.

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(A.Glass 2017)

Fall 2023 review soon.