Louis Vuitton. Fall 2023 - PAris Fashion Week

(Images:  Louis Vuitton 2023)

Nicolas Ghesquière rustic modernist looks continue to morph from his more utopian, sleek and retrofuturism styles of the last five years.    His flirtation with the templated appeal of the 1950's esque future-that-never -was, has since moved into, daren't I say, a more avant-garde take on the said era.  Which is turning out to be paradoxically an interesting fusion of modernist rigidity over avant-garde risqué.   Yet, the styles overall have a conservative and restrained feel, representing a more tailored array.  While incorporating a less rebellious fixture, Ghesquière has attuned his latest collection towards a more serious moot point.  Is this Ghesquière's new direction for Louis Vuitton?

In similarity to Ghesquière's Fall 2022 collection with its academia and studious styles, his reworking of the bland aesthetics of the 1960's and 1970's has to be admired despite moving away  from his futurism styles into these heavy laden and boxy looks.   It does very much feel like a paradigm shift, and as a reviewer of many of Ghesquière's shows over the last five years there does seem to be a drastic change of direction.  Pointing to what could be seen as an indecision with the direction of Louis Vuitton under Ghesquière.

And as mentioned the avant-garde has certainly influenced Ghesquière's Fall 2023 collection, melding aspects of asymmetrical cuts, draped styles with its ad hoc pattern work.   The palette, like other Fall 2023 designers who have showcased at the recent fashion weeks, have chosen to be muted in their vibrancy, with earthy and dulled tones setting the trend.   Gone are Ghesquière's  utopian and vivacity stylizations, replacing his renown futurist looks with dark brown greens and shades of grays. 

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(A.Glass 2023)