from the chiasmus archive: "JUUN J. SPRING 2020 - PARIS FASHION WEEK" (June 22, 2019)

(Images from the designer and the public domain. Credited to the photographer/company where applicable: Gorunway.com)  

Juun J has delivered a stunning collection for his Spring 2020 Paris showing.  After several hit and misses of prior seasons, he has swung back to a more refined and intensified array. Not shying away from the oversize styling that he his famous for, rather Juun J has sculptured and defined the disposition and size variants in a very clever way, crafting and setting down as a renewed template of characterization that is unique to his signature brand.  A very talented designer.  

However, there has been at times noted from previous shows, a struggle with fits, particularly the more tighter styles on offer. Whether or not it is viewed as part of the overall projection of the Juun. J look.  Of the more leather orientated looks, which seem bunched up and loose within the idea of possibly creating a tighter style.  With his latest collection he has evened out the kinks, portraying a lot more styled and tailored presentation, carrying on with the blazer trend and coat trend of 2018 and 2019.  Junn. J has scaled back the layered bomber jackets and militarily styles, embracing an alternative version of the current trend of 1980s looks. Which I feel, exhibited by this latest collection, assists in rejuvenating previous decade/s aesthetics.  Despite its finer tailoring and styles, Juun J has not held back from the intensity of his unique brand.  

For Spring 2020, the collection holds a more direct and relevant appeal.  In lock step with geopolitical tensions of a new Cold War and climate change now becoming headline events, there is a seriousness, an unrelenting confrontation with the new, the future that may never rise – but, still needs to be faced. Sleek and beautifully fitted and vehement clothing, fine wools, leather, denim and synthetic materials in an effortless way ensuring the collection holds a defined stylization.  The past mountaineering, military looks remain as a backdrop theme, with the blazer and coats showcasing Juun J's ability to offer a bespoken mix.  With the the color palette set between the achromatic of black and white, dark blues, grays, khaki with some urban camouflage prints

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(A.Glass 2019)

Fall 2023 review soon.