Simon Miller. Fall 2023 - Los Angeles

The romanticism with the 1970s and 1980s is probably warranted, in lieu of the chaotic state of the world in 2023.  So, the redrawing from past timelines, while looking for meaning in history can be, although it may not deliver all the answers, a seductive cue.   And for fashion, when sourcing inspiration, the industry has been moving back and forth from the 1960s, 1970s and 1980s in a perpetual motion of indulgence. Yet, interestingly, the 1950s and 1990s seemly have been left out, which from a sociological standard, our society has taken a lot more of its feigned and bizarre reflection of 50s financial stability and technological 'progress', mixed with 90s entrepreneurism.   But, I do have an affection for the differentials of 70s and 80s popular culture and it defining imprint on society, as the hippie counter culture 'died' in 1968, replaced by discos, hedonism and sex.  Which later became the main play of the day, well and truly into the mid 1980s, before AIDS emerged and our society began to lean towards a more conservative family value template.  And, as we all entered the 2000s, and it was the children of the baby boomers which held that desired prosperity or as they say, " it was the decade that spawned DVD players and mortgages".   

So, as an archaic observation of the last four decades,I have always admired Simon Miller's collections, to be an interesting take on that Los Angeles 70s flow.  Created by Daniel Corrigan and Jake Sargent in 2008, who have both since left the namesake label, handing the reins to once New York City resident Chelsea Hansford.  And since relocating the brand to L.A. in 2018 with her husband, Hansford's sassiness and devotion to that mid-century aesthetic is the brand's main drive, which by all its definition celebrates L.A. as that pinnacle of the American dream.  

And for Hansford's Fall 2023 collection, she has instilled a more grounded and mature imprint to her 1970s impressions, whilst offering the amorous.  Or, if you revise your mid 20th century history lessons, the sexual liberation of the 1960s and 70s and all of its expectations that heralded in a freedom for women, to have sex with whom they want, when they want, as the shackles of 1950s conservatism were released in earnest.  However in saying that, Simon Miller's latest array is no homage, although there are elements in this collection, to the escapades of teenage 70s rock groupies ala the infamous Sunset Strip, which has been seen in her earlier lookbooks.  Rather it portrays the late 70-esque sophistication of the middle class woman and the contradictions of the so called 'good wife,' whilst living at the cusp of the 1980s, when infidelity was rife.  

What is inspiring to see, particularly for a young designer such as Hansford, is how she maintains her dedication to the decade of the 1970s, while redefining her own influences which are clearly drawn from its Los Angeles story.  And when looked at objectively, only remains as a reflection through its urban architecture and history.  But, history is fraught with suffering and despite our romanticism of the 70s and 80s, with its associated timeline, they were both decades which were imbued with anguish.  L.A. was and still is a boulevard of broken dreams, within its materialistic wonderland.  It holds no favours.  So it would be prudent to gently release the ghosts of the past, or be burdened by their adversity.

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(A.Glass 2023)