EXCERPT: ANN DEMEULEMEESTER SPRING 2024 - PARIS FASHION WEEK.

 

"...Like most material aspects of our culture, we can be haunted by ghosts of the past, metaphor or not.  If we don't clear away the restless spirits, one can become entangled within their suffering.  Let them pass on.  And the label Ann Demeulemeester maybe suffering from the haunts of the past, and in all of its irony of traversing between the timelines of the 1900's and 1970's bohemian looks, after Ann Demeulemeester's retirement ten years ago, the label probably should have been put to rest.  Now in the hands of a corporate entity, Ann Demeulemeester's brand name has churned through, after Meunier's ten year tenure, creative teams who had hastily put together Ann Demeulemeester's Fall 2021 collection without a long term creative director.  Antonelli then hired once Rick Owens model and young fashion designer Ludovic de Saint Sernin, who lasted for only one collection, debuting for Ann Demeulemeester's Fall 2023 collection, that by its standard, was actually a worthwhile debut for De Saint Sernin, yet he exited the brand after just six months.  Testament, to when a brand name tries to reinvent itself, without folding, on disturbed foundations, and begins to have creative directors leave in short durations, that label itself could be holding a curse.  Unless it is ritually cleared..."

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(A.Glass 2023)

Full review:  chiasmusmagazine.blogspot.com/2023/11/ann-demeulemeester-spring-2024-paris.html