from the chiasmus archive: "Ann Demeulemeester Spring 2018 – Paris Fashion Week" Posted on September 5th, 2017

The show notes with it’s observations for Sébastien Meunier’s Spring 2018 men’s and (women’s pre-collection) for Ann Demeulemeester, stated that the influences were derived from the New York City romanticism of the 1970s and early 1980s – ala Robert Mapplethorpe, Patti Smith and the Chelsea Hotel legacy. A period, despite any relevance to a romantic portrayal – was also a time that carried significant amount of creativity. I feel it is important when fashion designers look into the past for inspiration, they represent those moments in history with respect.

That being said a homage and veneration to past ideas is an acceptable aspect to Sébastien Meunier’s Spring 2018 menswear for Ann Demeulemeester. However, there is a mournful perspective to this collection, with the majority of the styles paying homage to the late 1970s NY East Village bohemian looks via the renown photographer Robert Mapplethorpe (1946-1989).

Flower ‘choker’ arrangements which were seen on some of the models, represented in a mainly black and white duality (with a smattering of rose colours throughout) – as the overall collection for Spring 2018 bares similarities to Meunier’s past shows. Silk pants, open shirts, sheer tank tops and t-shirts, the now prominent Ann Demeulemeester jewelry inspired tassels and feathers, also noted are the flowing glass necklaces (as an accessory fixture it works extremely well). Leather pants, coats, shorts and riding boots, within the majority of black and white pieces, Meunier has also added some light florals which included deep crimson blends to Ann Demeulemeester’s Spring 2018 collection – seen on various pieces ranging from velvet, linen and corduroy styles.

Also, as noted, are the women’s pre-collection outfits and the use of older models. Which, from a visual impression, was to round off a complete representation of a period that, despite it being historic and personal, holds a nostalgic legacy.

___

(A.Glass 2017)

Spring 2024 review soon.