EXCERPT: YOHJI YAMAMOTO. MEN'S FALL 2024 - PARIS FASHION WEEK.
"Many moons ago, when I was Fourteen I bought my first fashion magazine. And I remember one of the editorial's, which was quite risqué, but alas for its time it seemed normal. And it has to be said many decades later that we, as a society, have become more conservative minded despite the distractive aspects of the recent so-called culture wars. Our societal template is more aligned with closed off rigidness than not, as opposed to the said era (and one can speculate when I bought that magazine), when I was fourteen, that it was more, shall we say open.
I have always been aware of Yohji Yamamoto, as some of the more stylized goths of the 1980s were able to purchase his clothing, and it was the allure of black which was very much a Yamamoto imprint, when his first collection was revealed in 1977 at Paris Fashion week. Then in 1982 with his former partner Rei Kawakubo of COMME des GARÇONS fame, revealed their "Black" collection, in which the Fashion press at the time, in an offhand and possibly derogatory manner, labeled the collection as "Hiroshima Chic". Yet, the irony, in light of the peak of the Cold War with Russia in the 80s, we could have all been Hiroshima Chic. Cool heads prevailed. But, alas it seems that we are back there again..."
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(A.Glass 2024)
Fall RTW 2024 review soon.
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