EXCERPT: Y/PROJECT. FALL 2024 - PARIS FASHION WEEK.

 

"...I have been reviewing Y/Project for over 6 years, as one of the key Avant-garde brands which emerged in 2010 created by the late Yohan Serfaty, whoes artisan inspired, black drapey ensembles assisted in defining the trend.  To which Martens, who took over Y/Project brand after Serfaty passed away in 2013, and so did the late designer's dark and edgy stylizations.  Rather, Martens upped the ante of Y/Project with his take on the pychosexual, unisex, denim arrays.  But, despite the gothic overtures of the late Serfaty laid to rest.  Martens's has enviograted his version of the Avant-garde as more of a defined architecturally inspired, postmodern offset to the modenst trends that lined the runways from 20210 onward.  After all dark, asymmetrical and drapey avant-garde styles, and labels, began to fade out.  However, I feel Martens tenure with Y/Project could be also fading out?  Considering the cash flow issues that Y/Project has, and Martens honesty to the fashion press on how dire it was for Y/Project's Fall 2024 collection, hence the showroom, rather than runway show, and his friends as models posing for the latest Y/Project lookbook.  Hypothetically, if Y/Project was to get a cash injection from a conglomerate or an offer to be acquired, of the many times this has occurred.  It has been the creative director, who is usually asked to leave."

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Full review: chiasmusmagazine.blogspot.com/2024/03/yproject-fall-2024-paris-fashion-week.html 

(A.Glass 2024)