SAINT LAURENT. Pre-FALL 2024 - PAris

(Images: Saint Laurent 2024)

Vaccarello's carnal reflections of the hedonist 1970s and 1980s has now been firmly ingrained into the late Yve Saint Laurent mythos, who, as a passed on spirit, was very much the epitome of an epicurean apex, of those said eras.   As a society now, within its own tipping point of over Two decades of a middle class conservatism, despite the digital relays offering the taboo.  It is still yet to define what a renewed counterculture will look like, even through Vaccarello has paid homage to the hedonistic cues of the last 50 years, they do indeed hold a delicious possibility that it may return with gusto.  But also, it may not. 

Yet, as the creative director of Saint Laurent and his flirtation with the eros, and that sexual allure of the casual tryst, I do feel there has always been a darker element to Vaccarello's romanticism of the 70s and 80s.  Which I've noted from my previous reviews of his collections over the years, that may allude to the restless spirits who are indeed part of the many boulevards of broken dreams.  That is because the past is of the dark, as we move into the light.  Whether metaphor or not, if one is to continue looking into the past to be inspired and even rejuvenated by it, we may end up disturbing what does not want to be disturbed.  Or fail to learn from the lessons of past resonation.  Unless, we do show respect and homage, to which most spiritual practices within their core do actualize.  At the end of the day, it should be let go. 

Vaccarello to a degree has achieved this, with his reworking of the sybaritic that was the tailend of post World War Two countercultures.  As the 1960s paved the way for its amorous overdrive that was the 1970s, when the equality movements laid down the groundwork for sexual liberation, which was embraced with a fervor.  Vaccarello's drawing out of the intensity of the era, before it began its decline in the mid-80s, is very much showing up with his recent collections.  The styles have become a lot more sheer and revealing, touching upon, what fellow Belgium and 70s icon Diana Von Furstenberg's 'Studio 54' confessionals entailed, of dancing and, at the end of the night, sex with a stranger esque flows.  

So, the seductive impression of Vaccarello's Pre-Fall 2024 comes after the Ready-to-Wear collection shown in Paris early this year, which showed up as one of the most bare-it-all Saint Laurent runway shows to date.   And Vaccarello's momentum doesn't seem to be abating into a climax anytime soon.  With his lingerie outwears, slip dresses and lace like gauzy emanations seen throughout the Pre-Fall array, this heightened tension of erotcism, continues to reverberate off its plateau.  Is a release imminent?  For the time being, that may not necessary and Vaccarello being the skilful designer that he is, with the many seasons to come, may allow this enhanced vigor of his amantory to gently rest.  

Until its next invigoration. 

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(A.Glass 2024)