EXCERPT: SAINT LAURENT. PRE-FALL 2024 - PARIS

"...Vaccarello to a degree has achieved this, with his reworking of the sybaritic that was the tailend of post World War Two countercultures.  As the 1960s paved the way for its amorous overdrive that was the 1970s, when the equality movements laid down the groundwork for sexual liberation, which was embraced with a fervor.  Vaccarello's drawing out of the intensity of the era, before it began its decline in the mid-80s, is very much showing up with his recent collections.  The styles have become a lot more sheer and revealing, touching upon, what fellow Belgium and 70s icon Diana Von Furstenberg's 'Studio 54' confessionals entailed, of dancing and, at the end of the night, sex with a stranger esque flows.  

So, the seductive impression of Vaccarello's Pre-Fall 2024 comes after the Ready-to-Wear collection shown in Paris early this year, which showed up as one of the most bare-it-all Saint Laurent runway shows to date.   And Vaccarello's momentum doesn't seem to be abating into a climax anytime soon.  With his lingerie outwears, slip dresses and lace like gauzy emanations seen throughout the Pre-Fall array, this heightened tension of erotcism, continues to reverberate off its plateau.  Is a release imminent?  For the time being, that may not necessary and Vaccarello being the skilful designer that he is, with the many seasons to come, may allow this enhanced vigor of his amantory to gently rest.  

Until its next invigoration."

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Full review:  chiasmusmagazine.blogspot.com/2024/07/saint-laurent-pre-fall-2024-paris.html

(A.Glass 2024)