A-Cold-Wall*. London Fall 2018 Men’s/Women’s collection

(Images from WWD. All Right.  Used in promotion of the designer)

In preparation for the Fashion weeks that will start in February  2018, the London Fall (or Autumn) collections began in earnest as a precursor to collections that will be represented in 2018.  Made up of mostly signature styles which can be purchased with its association of the various experimental runway pieces, although once again as noted with reviews of prior shows and their seasons.  There is an influx of designers, mostly newer brands, attempting to set a precedence within the masses of fashion brands coming onto global markets.

A-Cold-Wall is a new clothing brand I know little about, apart from their press releases and interviews of the brand’s lead creative designer Samuel Ross.  There is always a foreseeable danger when newer designers identify  with ‘street wear’ styles which can be seen from several points.   Apart from aiming at an adolescent look, that, by its very distinction reiterates an immaturity, as you’ll need to sell high volume at a cheaply mass produced cost, this, even if the designer looks at the so called high end of street wear as a selling market.  Which in turn will eventually cheapen the brand as quality plummets and what is left in ‘name only’ may fade just as quickly.  As mentioned, the inundation of fashion brands is astounding in our globalised digital world.  Not all will make it.  However, even with unique branding, exclusivity is the key to avoid the misstep into banality, particularly under the street ‘style’ banner.

Already Samuel Ross and his brand A-Cold-Wall have set the stage, removing the label of ‘street wear’ and replacing it with urban influenced work wear.  Very unique characteristics in visualizing newer aesthetics.  In fact, I have seen nothing like it within the context of urban and/or Avant-garde styles.    Represented his fall men’s Winter collection at the London National Gallery Room 1, for Fall 2018 Men’s and Women’s.   Similarly curated as a gallery art show with very detailed and well complied show notes.  Which can be viewed on A-Cold-Wall website.

A sleek and more refined take on futuristic urban styles, very nicely cut and well fitted onto the models.  Cotton and wool with mostly a nylon and polyester array, as both can be underrated materials when used within its quality rather than quantity usage.  Compressed and protective aesthetics,  with militarily/construction style utility harnesses as unusual looking carry bags.  Risqué, especially in our current suicidal bomber world of exploding belts.   Resilient inspired ponchos, which I am a fan, it will be interesting to see if they become an emerging trend in 2018.  Also noted is draped styled  polyamide (material) sleeveless vests.  This is not new, as it has  been seen as a material base and style from Y-3 (Yohji Yamamoto) and Rick Owens prior collections.  The palette for A-Cold-Wall’s Fall 2018 collection is an even mix of  urban cityscape  browns, dark blues, starkness of black, non reflective whites and neutrality of grays.  Silver, as an inspired thermal or industrial insulation.  Burt orange and yellows, like sunsets through our city streets.