Boris Bidjan Saberi men’s Fall 2018 – Paris Fashion Week
(Images from Vogue.com and wwd.com the public domain. All rights. Used in promotion of the designer.)
“You work against time, not within time. But, you do this effortlessly. So that time does not become the burden.”
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Boris Bidjan Saberi knows that to hold a distinction in creative and
original styles, is the practice of maintaining the core aspects of what
a clothing brand represents. He does this masterfully. One of the
errors that newer designers and some of the older ones repeat, is to
shift the core ideas of their brand at the whim of what they
perceive in changing markets. This is an incorrect perspective in
fashion, unless you are being dictated by a large department store or
conglomerate. Either way, establishing a base, that is unique in its
origins. A development that has occurred overtime, sourced from the
main aesthetics. Which in turn then creates the ability to push forward
with new concepts from older renderings, this is an essential aspect of
design. Developing a look or style that is yours in its entirety.
Undoubtedly as discussed in my previous show reviews, Saberi maintains the science fiction
themes. The pre and post dystopic styles which are represented within
the now, not a future, as it is the present points in time that we are
all enduring. From climate change to the shifting cityscapes and
restructuring of urban environments, the over populated and built up
cities. The failure of globalisation as a Utopian dream, ironically lead by crony capitalism, to
bolster, what they believed would be a new frontier in economic
prosperity and cultural diversity. All the while we live in a new cold
war, as proxy wars are waged whilst opening up borders for free trade.
The crumbling of prefabricated apartment blocks, overpriced in an
inflation and debt riddled world. Our changing climates, harsher
winters with brutal summers. The dystopian future is of the now.
Boris Bidjan Saberi Men’s Fall 2018 theme is of the mountaineering
and survivalist styles, as a deep winter spreads across the Northern
Hemisphere. Washed out beige as Saberi’s take on the sherling coats and
padded up woolen sleeveless jackets. The heavy layered linen/wool look
remains, as seen in previous collections, as mentioned this has become
Saberi’s benchmark. A consistent layering of compressed Avant-garde
styles over the male form. In turn it helps maintain the rugged
masculinity, as a projected aesthetic with this collection the clothes
reflect a functionality, which overall maintains Saberi’s themed styles.
There is a rawness to the color palette, which would make sense with
the materials used, linen, wool and distressed leathers. Light and
charcoal/gunmetal grays, russet and umber browns, with a smidgen of
crushed red violet (seen as a sleeveless leather smock style jacket).
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