Julius men’s Fall 2017. Paris Fashion Week
Tatsuro Horikawa created JULIUS in 2001 as a collaborative art
project, from that point it then evolved into a fashion house under
Horikawa’s watchful eye. His talent in fashion design is the ability to
create evocation, in combination as a curator of visual and aural
soundscapes. For Paris Fashion Week Fall 2017 Men’s, the theme for the
JULIUS show was titled Neuromantika. A homage to the author William
Gibson and his novel Neuromancer written in 1984, with an overall
influence of a post dystopian cyberpunk ethos of the mid 1980s, with
“1984” displayed on some of the garments. The fusion of a cyberpunk
aesthetic with Horikawa also drawing on influences from Japanese
futuristic animation, namely Akira (1988) directed and written by
Katsuhiro Otomo. Which in turn borrowed heavily from the French science
fiction comic Métal Hurlant (1974). The admirable aspect of Japanese
modern culture is it’s ability to meld influences from both the West and
Eastern perspectives.
JULIUS Fall 2017 and also Winter 2018 showcases an avant-garde
future, less black and Gothic as previous collections. Rather a neutral
and even toned palette, with cream, light green and browns, Akabeni red,
blues intermixed with achromatic black and whites. Cropped biker
jackets over draped, oversized shirts and jerseys. Accessories as belts
that hang down, a show of nonconformity and rebellion. A reworking of
traditional standards. Tough cyberpunk Neo-Tokyo styles, that can also
be seen with the models hair, Japanese pageboy looks, notably influenced
by Katsuhiro Otomo’s (Akira) character Shotaro Kaneda. Padded leather
and heavily lined jackets are shown for Horikawa’s Winter 2018
collection, an indication that he will return to the darker avant-garde
styles.
A dystopian future may already be upon us, Tatsuro Horikawa doesn’t
portray a grimness in this transition into the new, his JULIUS Fall 2017
collection has a positive and focused display. Embracing change,
learning from cultures, implementing ideas and concepts to build a
foundation from destruction.
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