Ann Demeulemeester men’s Fall 2018– Paris Fashion Week

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“The great object of life is Sensation – to feel that we exist – even though in pain – it is this ‘craving void’ which drives us to Gaming – to Battle – to Travel – to intemperate but keenly felt pursuits of every description whose principle attraction is the agitation inseparable from their accomplishment.”   (Lord Byron to Annabella Milbanke, which would be his future wife, 6 September, 1813)
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Sébastien Meunier for Ann Demeulemeester returns with a Fall 2018 collection which resonates aesthetically as rather than a homage to the poet William Blake (d1827), but more of an acknowledgment of Lord Byron or “The Byronic” hero as of  dark, brooding, rebellious and solitary wanderer.  Although, undoubtedly Ann Demeulemeester’s men’s Fall  2018 collection represents the overall romantics as a period in all its gothic, devil-may-care appeal.  It is of the fallen angel, misunderstood, trying to define life.  While knowing that life is absurd, he is a poet and lover, but all the while aware of his mortality.  To be forsaken is to be destine as a Rakehell.  It is to embrace what you truly are rather than deny.   As life is lived within the moment, it is all but the eternal that will remain.

Meunier has reinstated the more dark and introspective styles for Ann Demeulmeester’s Fall 2018.  As noted from previous shows, the free flowing romanticism of the mid to late 1970s Chelsea hotel mythos has been gently pushed aside to embrace the more serious tone.  As mentioned, a darker transitional aspect of the male form.  While remaining true to the Demeulemeester stylized impression, which is a contemporary take on romantic styles.  It is an ode to the gothic and romantics of yesteryear, the non-nonchalant debonair and that reflection of his masculinity.

As noted in some of the reviews for Ann Demeulemeester’s Fall 2018 showing , the ‘gender fluidity’ once again is misplaced terminology for Sébastien Meunier’s Fall 2018 collection.  This is, as described, is a very masculine array.  The writer and/or poet romantic poet modeled from, as mentioned, the The Byronic is male by its pure definition of aesthetics.  It is however seen with Ann Demeulemeester’s Fall 2018 collection, the feminine who is able to embraced and meld herself into masculine styles.   Not the other way round.

Long, military inspired trench coats with exaggerated hanging sleeve cuffs, draped and loose fitted shirts and blouses, open and exposed.  Hanging glass beads as accessories, which I am a big fan of, also seen are the aiguillette inspired ceremonial cords.   Knee high leather riding and combat styled boots.  Reworked blazers and vests,  mostly wool, cotton with satin used as stylized inlays, layered into various pieces.  Raw cut shearling coats, for the reclusive writer battling against the cold.  Also noted are the prints on t-shirts of William Blake’s “Songs of Innocence and of Experience” book cover.
The colour palette maintains Ann Demeulemeester’s achromatic gothic backdrop, with vivid purple, washed out pastels, sunset yellows and neutral grays.