Ann Demeulemeester Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear. Paris Fashion Week



 (Images from Vogue.com  WWD.com.  All rights.  Used in promotion of the designer.)

As noted with my review of  Ann Demeulemeester’s Men’s Spring 2018, the use and direct influences of the late 1970s NY East Village bohemian looks held a prolific overture with Sébastien Meunier’s ensuring that a respectful acknowledgment to not only Ann Demeulemeester’s brand which he is now their creative director, but also to a period that, despite the romanticism, holds a sombre reflection.

For Ann Demeulemeester’s Ready-to-Wear Spring 2018 Sébastien Meunier has returned, albeit subtly, to Demeulemeester’s established Gothic and romantic styles of the last two decades.   Meunier has successively reinvigorated an evocation, that in it’s distinction is solely Ann Demeulemeester’s creative expression.

A beautifully layered and draped collection for Ann Demeulemeester’s RTW Spring 2018, a flowing array of Meunier’s fused romantic styles with tinges of Demeulemeester’s Gothic shinning through.   Blazers, coats and shirts, cropped and portrayed in an effortless assemblage.  Sheer tops and sleeves loosely fitted on the models.  Hemmed and tailored 3/4 pants, silks, linen, velvet and satin – worked into the achromatic within it’s black and white appeal.  All styled with Demeulemeester’s sui generis accessories, seen as hanging tassels, glass neck-beads and feathers.  Also noted are the leather black ‘twined’ wrapped drop necklaces, which as mentioned, could be Meunier’s enigmatic Gothic returning to illuminate.  Especially with one particular piece which was a mix of mesh and leather.

Ann Demeulemeester’s Ready-to-Wear Spring 2018 maintained it’s evocable balance between the dualities of black and white, as Sébastien Meunier utilized the aesthetics of poetic romanticism.   However, we may see Meunier return the brand to a more darker agglomeration, as seen from some of the early 1990 Demeulemeester shows.


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