From the Chiasmus archive: "Iris van Herpen. Couture – Spring 2021" Posted May 25th, 2021 by CHIASMUS MAGAZINE BLOG
(Images: Iris Van Herpen 2021)
I’ve thinking about the the aftermath of the pandemic, which by all definition is probably not a sensible thing to do, as the future is always uncertain, particularly with this virus doing what it does until the pharmaceutical companies and governments can get it together and implement a cohesive vaccination program for 2021. So far within their strange dichotomy of up-playing and downplaying the virus with promises of an all clear being maintained, without or without Trump, in the light a stock market that is surging on a whiff of positive news that the old normal will return. One thing is for sure, it won’t. So the uncertainly very much carries on, but so does life. Still, what might be a lurking crisis is price inflation on materials and rising production costs, but there is an underlining encouragement that newer industries are adjusting to a changing world and what is exciting about these innovative possibilities emerging from this pandemic, are the renewable and recyclable industries being explored as an alternative to the costly and wasteful production techniques before the pandemic.
Iris van Herpen’s couture presentation for Spring 2021 has experimented using recycled plastics intertwined into her uniquely inspired courtiering process, to which couture, if one isn’t aware is by its definition the use of the finest materials in collaboration with precision craftsmanship to create the clothing designs, yet Van Herpen is no stranger to the finery of exactitude fashion. Shifting her collections, after the Fall 2016 Ready-to-Wear showing, to an exclusively couture array, her skills at merging 3D printing of intricate pattern work with synthetic materials merged with hand stitching of silk and other traditional fabrics into her gowns, has proven to be of an upheld excellence. Thus, Van Herpen has been able to consistently deliver a sophisticated and unique couture collection every year.
For her latest offering, Van Herpen has collaborated with Parley for the Oceans incorporating their Ocean sourced recycled polyester fabric as a renewable material into her Spring collection, which is a very admirable endeavor considering that the couture process is defined by not only the skills of the dressmaking but also the materials used, recycled plastics is certainly not one of them. Yet according to Van Herpen the quality, particularly for her 3D printing process, is akin to the organic silk she weaves by hand into each of the pieces on display. Another enthralling aspect to her stunning collection, is the overall theme of Mycology, the study of fungi and its impact on all life, with Van Herpen giving credit to UK biologist and author Merlin Sheldrake on his book Entangled Life. In a fascinating summary, that fungi, which is neither plant or animal, resides in all nature, including within us – being a crucial element as a global biological commutation hub. That maintains a web like structure, sharing biological information throughout its networks, a symbiotic organism that is essentially a dominate and hardy entity. But is it a life form?
Van Herpen’s mycology influenced pattern work for her Couture 2020 ensembles are spectacular, beautifully arranged and fitted, showcasing her overall ability to meld the sciences, technology, metaphysical and conceptual into intricate dress designs that has been exceptionally portrayed. The shapes and configurations are all symmetrically portioned, which are in ode of the fine tuned balance of natural ecosystems, whilst rediscovering humanities' place in the web of life. Van Herpen over the years has continued to refine and redefine her artistic concepts as a Couturier, despite the turmoil in the world at the moment, the creative must carry on and push gradually into the new day. She is an outstanding fashion designer.
A truly stunning collection.
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Authored: A.Glass (28th January 2021)
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