from the chiasmus archive: "Valentino. Couture – Spring 2021" Posted May 19th, 2021 by CHIASMUS MAGAZINE BLOG
(Images: Valentino 2021)
Couture Spring 2021 was obviously a digital only affair with limited runway exposure without crowds or official attendees, it was purely an online experience. And for the foreseeable future I don’t think there will be any unnecessary risk in crowed runway shows in lieu of the some of the irresponsible actions of some designers just before the devastating 2nd wave of the virus hit Europe later 2020, who decided to host shows with crowds for their Spring Ready-to-Wear collection. So, the caution is on with the European governments taking no risks at this point time all the while vaccine ‘nationalism’ has erupted between the European Union and Britain, as the WHO are asking the English government to not horde vaccinations once a large portion of the populous has been vaccinated. Yes, it’s getting a little messy out there even with a light at the end of the tunnel emerging. But, it is the designers and stalwart individuals who have kept going despite the lockdowns and lack of clarity of buyers, who have carried on in this very uncertain time, designing their collections within the shadow of a pandemic that has changed everything.
Pierpaolo Piccioli, Valentino’s creative director, is that kind of designer. With the pressure of COVID-19 having a devastating effect on Italy, it is a time regardless of sentiment of introspection and meditation. Maybe a realization and open question to what our place within the web of life is, that we, as human beings, are to the natural world and Universe – insignificant. Could this finally humble us? As a simply reminder that life comes and goes, whether we exist or not. Yet it is this curse and also blessing of our consciousness, an over awareness that has plagued us. Piccioli has experimented with these idealisms, although not specially spelled out, is of the mediative concept of trying to understand the human condition, with some of the sleekest couture styles seen via the digital interface. Offering what Piccioli deemed as a blank space, that his latest collection would not have a narrative or as he has been quoted, “No stories…Nothing figurative.”
Titling the show Temporal as a Zennist or Western philosophical concept that everything fades, the life is all but temporal. To squander it is of a determent, to live and create may it be the aptitude of the human condition. Piccioli’s Spring couture presentation holds this discipline, also saying that his, “…idea is to witness the moment…” that the pieces displayed are, “effortless”. Which has in turn, after months of conscientious effort, with each design hand crafted and stitched together, the precision apportioned to each design is stunning. Setting the stage via the pre-recorded show in Rome, is the return to a modernist approach, that was seen at the tail end trend of 2020, but became sidelined with the pandemic, when the more avant-garde and darker ensembles were seen. Piccioli has also incorporated a Men’s couture with the Women’s collection which was somewhat a risky play, as it could have diluted the details and quality that Couture demand, often comprised with a larger collection. However, Piccioli, from what can be viewed from the footage and the lookbook images, seems to have held the line with the fine details and quality of clothing, not to mentioned that it has to be all hand crafted. It appears he has accomplished this with a dedicated finesse.
The color palette reveals a pastel spectrum, with clean and defined looks, with cuts and fits that are outstanding. A sleekly drawn range of styles, which mainly works from its definition rather than volume, hence the modernism impression. With the male styles intertwined within the women’s collection, there are moments of the femininity of gown wearing pieces, even though the couture work is evident, it does also have a slight Ready-to-Wear resonation which could make the collection seem homogeneous. Blazers and long coats, evening dresses and drapey ankle length skirts hold the more female reflections and also the willowy lineation of the models that portray supermodel-esque looks, reminiscent of the 1990s runway shows. Also viewed is some of the most beautiful intricate pattern work seen on a one piece dress and open stylized tunic. Gold is seen as a theme throughout the collection, with model’s faces painted in its shimmering aureate, Piccioli, even though he as not offered a clue on why it was used for his latest styles, the use of gold can be seen as a concept of renewal or new beginning within it mythological allure.
A magnificent collection.
Valentino. Couture – Spring 2021. A.Glass January 31, 2021
( A.Glass 2021)
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