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Except: RICK OWENS. SPRING 2023 - PARIS FASHION WEEK.


"...And it is an important history lesson of Owens's backstory, when the evolving early 2000's avant-garde styles on the runways fizzed out between 2015 and 2018, replaced by the modernist designer looks which became more of a trend with its street wear and sports company collaborations.  Owens has remained stalwart to the styles that he devised in the late 1990's, revealed at New York Fashion week in 2002.   Twenty years later, his resounding configurations that center round the dark gothic inclinations, maybe ringing true in its doomsday ethos, noted in my 2020 and 2021 reviews of Owens post-Lido, Venice shows, as his end-of-the-world oracles and their foretelling that calamity is all but settling in for us all.  May well be that needed metaphor, to which we may accept as a proclivity that the end is in fact sexy.  Why fear it?

And maybe it will be that illusive counterculture, which will be fearless and enduring in our demise, not as reckless consumers, but rather living life aware that doomsday is nigh.  However, it is hard to visually guess the theme of Owens latest collection, but it follows on from the Spring 2023 men's styles, with a mix of light, dark and the esoteric, with its airiness of tulle and sheer looks, influenced by his interest in Egyptology..."

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(A.Glass 2022)
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