EXCERPT: SAINT LAURENT. SPRING 2023 - PARIS FASHION WEEK.

"...Vaccarello's crisscrossing times lines of the last 40 years to which I find fascinating of a designer, as noted in many of my reviews since his tenue, who has an ardent fixation on the late 1970's and early 1980's aesthetics, whilst playing with 1960's counterculture.  Which defined the sexual liberation, as an important backlash against conservative values of the 1950's, later morphing into an all out hedonism of the 1970's.  And there is an important element in all Vaccarello's dynamism, that one should be aware of, that being the reflected simulacrum of his hyperreal template. 

As the threat of nuclear war once again descends over us, very much like the tumultuous time of the cold war that our parents and grandparents endured.  Vaccarello has recharged that party of Studio 54, ala 1979 as a homage, directed at the celebritydom of the time.  With Grace Jones's delphian styles as an inspiring fixture of the late 70's.  Offering 49 looks in total, ranging from the nonchalant composure of  the femme fatale through to its erogenous desire and romanticism that bestowed a period that fellow Belgium designer, Diane von Furstenberg who actually lived through that peroid, had recently summarized, "As a woman, it was the beginning of women liberation. It was also the sex liberation. We didn't know anything about AIDS. It was this moment in history between the invention of pill and the coming out of AIDS. So we were very free..."    

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Full review:  https://chiasmusmagazine.blogspot.com/2022/09/saint-laurent-spring-2023-paris-fashion.html  

(A.Glass 2022)