Excerpt: "YOHJI YAMAMOTO. SPRING 2023 - PARIS FASHION WEEK"

"...To which Yamamoto holds the stygian, the void as an obscure answer that one can meditate with, in a quest of finding the equilibrium of youth and the aging of life, thus Yamamoto's latest collection maintains the black as its stark canvas.  First seen in 1981, when he and Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons debuted their collections of asymmetrical styles with their draped linen and fine wool, it was portrayed all in black with aspects of ghostly white.  To which the French press, in a derogatory manner, at the time called the Japanese designers Paris shows "Hiroshima Chic", yet Yamamoto and Kawakubo went on to redefine the modernist and avant-garde risqué and inscribe it into high fashion. 

Yamamoto's Spring 2023 collection holds his patois that is of Japanese and Western anagrams, with his notable vagueness and its charm of a lost-in-translation, in turn adding to the uniqueness of Yamamoto's extended career as a fashion designer.   

“When a humble flower in the crannied wall is understood, the whole universe and all things in it and out of it are understood.” 鈴木 大拙 貞太郎  (Suzuki Daisetsu Teitarō d1966)"

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Full review:  https://chiasmusmagazine.blogspot.com/2022/10/yohji-yamamoto-spring-2023-paris.html 

(A.Glass 2022)