From the Chiasmus Archive: "Boris Bidjan Saberi men’s Fall 2018 – Paris Fashion Week" (A.Glass 2018)

(Images from Vogue.com)

“You work against time, not within time.  But, you do this effortlessly.  So that time does not become the burden.”

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Boris Bidjan Saberi knows that to hold a distinction in creative and original styles, is the practice of maintaining the core aspects of what a clothing brand represents.  He does this masterfully.   One of the errors that newer designers and some of the older ones repeat, is to shift the core ideas of  their brand at the whim of what they perceive in changing markets.  This is an incorrect perspective in fashion, unless you are being dictated by a large department store or conglomerate.  Either way, establishing a base, that is unique in its origins.  A development that has occurred overtime, sourced  from the main aesthetics.  Which in turn then creates the ability to push forward with new concepts from older renderings, this is an essential aspect of design.  Developing a look or style that is yours in its entirety.

Undoubtedly as discussed in my previous show reviews, Saberi maintains the science fiction themes.   The pre and post dystopic styles which are represented within the now, not a future, as it is the present points in time that we are all enduring.   From climate change to the shifting cityscapes and restructuring of urban environments, the over populated and built up cities.  The failure of globalisation as a ‘socialist’ Utopian dream, ironically lead by crony capitalism, to bolster, what they believed would be a new frontier in economic prosperity and cultural diversity.   All the while we live in a new cold war, as proxy wars are waged whilst opening up borders for free trade.  The crumbling of prefabricated apartment blocks, overpriced in an inflation and debt riddled world.  Our changing climates, harsher winters with brutal summers.  The dystopian future is of the now.

Boris Bidjan Saberi Men’s Fall 2018 theme is of the mountaineering and survivalist styles, as a deep winter spreads across the Northern Hemisphere.  Washed out beige as Saberi’s take on the sherling coats and padded up woolen sleeveless jackets.  The heavy layered linen/wool look remains, as seen in previous collections, as mentioned this has become Saberi’s benchmark.  A consistent  layering of compressed Avant-garde styles over the male form.  In turn it helps maintain the rugged masculinity, as a projected aesthetic with this collection the clothes reflect a functionality, which overall maintains Saberi’s themed styles.

There is a rawness to the color palette, which would make sense with the materials used, linen, wool and distressed leathers.  Light and charcoal/gunmetal grays, russet and umber browns, with a smidgen of crushed red violet (seen as a sleeveless leather smock style jacket).

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A.Glass 2018