Ann Demeulemeester. Spring 2020 RTW - Paris Fashion Week.

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Images from the designer and the public domain. Credited to the 

photographer/company where applicable: Gorunway.com )

As noted with several of my reviews for Spring 2020, the trend that is subtly rising to the top, is the recut lingerie, undergarment styles, interfused with tailored looks.  The UK designer Christoper Kane has been working with this look for awhile now, more so heading the theme as of his shows, in an intellectual way, on the subject of sex.  The designers that are now experimenting with this style (and theme) are stripping it further back into clever ways, not gaudy or overly sexualized, the subtle sex appeal is working, but it also holds a bluntness as well.  The whole look, if it is emerging trend for Spring/Summer works very well.  Which is also great to see, the runways relaxing from their earlier stuffy imprints of past seasons.

Why not play with the mentioned theme and styles, as it is, in so many ways, very much a challenge.  Sébastien Meunier has handled the Ann Demeulemeester mantle well and now it seems he is beginning, after his debut Spring 2015 men's collection, to take reign of the Ann Demeulemeester label.  Which is important for a designer after settling into an established brand, gently reworking its signature styling, gradually adding their own take.  Meunier has achieved this in his transformation of the brand name.

From reports, the location for the Ann Demeulmeester's Spring 2020 showing in Paris, was held in a data storage facility several levels below street level, so it had a enclosed bunker like feel.  In preparation for a doomsday, data is the new gold.  The system sees the rule of data more important than life. Yet, the collection felt real, alive and focused.  A vivid dream.  Even though there was darkness portrayed, yet it exuded a raw sex appeal, that, if the world may end, it is by definition, it will be us that will end.  The world was here before we evolved.  Sex, is pretty much all we have left.  Fear is a mind killer and as the late Charles Burkowski once said, “Sex is kicking death in the ass while singing.”  Why not enjoy?  We have become too rigid and serious. 

This is a gothic affair, seductive, intense and tough, yet feminine and desirable.  Beautifully balanced, black is the main play.  Which makes sense as it is matched against the model's skin tones and there is lot of bare flesh presented, thigh high splits, tights, bras, fishnet stockings, sheer and see through tops.  A beautiful gossamery red sheer dress was also display, other pieces fused the duality of white and black, bridging it as one.  The Taoist of yin and yang, male and female.  Tantric pleasure.  The same.  Fleeting, yet eternal.