Olivier Theyskens. Spring 2020 RTW - Paris Fashion Week.

(Images from the designer and the public domain. Credited to the 

photographer/company where applicable: Gorunway.com)

The Spring 2020 fashion weeks to date have shown the emergence of a very interesting trend, with various designers utilizing sheer fabric overlays and inlays in a representation of undergarments or more so lingerie, to be seen as a refined wearable style.  Striping back, literally, the heavier and draped looks, even though when executed well do cast a favorable silhouette, to be in favor of more revealing and tantalizing styles.  Olivier Theyskens gave a hint of this direction via his Resort 2020 collection, in establishing a more delineated impression. 

Theyskens Spring array is a svelte of enticing regalia, despite the clean lines there is the picked, loose thread stitch-work, which has always created an interesting detail to styles.  Adding the unfinished look with the tailored blazer, bloomer and dress hems, gives his latest collection a sophisticated rawer look, without it being to overly rustic in its appearance.   The devil-is-in-the-details with these striking outfits, mostly portayed into revealing ways, which in turn ensuring that the sex appeal is evident.  This could be Theyskens, as seen with other designers, attempt at relaxing the rigidity of previous seasons and the sentiment expressed via the runways.  In which the soundtrack mix for the his runway show was a slowed down, ghostly inspired, version of Cindy Lauper's 1983 hit “Girls Just wanna have fun”, as the influence for Theyskens latest styles was the clothes on offer for this season are to aspire a “fun” time. By its visual definition, the overall impression maybe about enjoying the darker resonance.  So there is an irony there somewhere.

Tailored lingerie outwear as bloomers, slips and brassieres.  Plunging neck lines, sheer and tulle fabrics.  Lace, satin and silk, open and flowing.  Sensuous, unapologetic and dramatic. Blazers, with models naked underneath, adding a more androgynous style which is aligned purely with the feminine.  His fine, couture tailoring is evident throughout, seen mostly on the gothic inspired gown and evening dresses, for the most part the entirety collection remains bare and minimal, attuned to black; only balanced against the model's skin tones.  With the remainder of the color palette set within the muted browns and grays, with radiant pinks and reds which work so well within the Stygian.