Coach 1941. Spring 2020 RTW - New York Fashion Week

(Images from the designer and the public domain. Credited to the 

photographer/company where applicable: Gorunway.com )

Coach 1941 the stalwart American leather goods brand, since hiring creative director Stuart Vevers, has slowly shifted away from his 2017 showings of 'Wild West' styled aesthetics with its nostalgic overtures in favor of 1970s, 80's styles whilst dabbling in 1990s flair.  Which for all intents and purposes, the recent trend of 90's street wear looks prying for a market expectations that a flood of eager buyers will descend.  Except the irony of embracing 90's looks, is it was actually a gaudy time for fashion, sans the runways of that era and designers backlogged 25+ year ago, who shined with creativity, pre 2001 - is the current backlash of fast fashion and rehash of 90's tracksuit street and sports wear styles, was the beginning, in its heyday, of fast fashion.  An indication that fashion is reflecting the confusion of trends and markets that have become too reliant on the digital world for forecasts.  Only sales will tell. 

Nevertheless, Coach for Spring 2020 under Vevers has reinvigorated its leather affair, with crimped and at times restrained styling as imposed to Coach's Fall 2019 show that seemed neater and more stylized.  The early 80's is imprinted all over this collection, not so much a 90's homage, however despite Vevers aiming towards the newer generation that may find icons from 30 years ago appealing, seen printed on t-shirts.  What is more impressive for Vevers Spring's raiment, is the 70's inspired leather skirts and blouses. Intermixed with mature styles, with a slightly conservative feel.  There are some stand out pieces such as the cropped sleeved dark blue and black long coat, with leather trimmings, a designer/thrift mix and match style that is actually the look on the streets at the moment.  Also a neofuturist style print on knitted tank top which caught my eye. What keeps this collection relaxed, is its spread between high end leather and thrifting styles, more so the wrap around mid length skirts and open coats and jackets. 

Vevers's color palette stays within the base of reds, yellows, browns, blues and greens, which keeps the spectrum aligned with Coach's seasonal arrays without being overly vivid, although pink gets its day in the sun.  That, as mentioned in previous show reviews, can work so well against the darker hues.  Pink is rarely used as an imbue that can offer, simultaneously, a sombre appeal within its lustrous mystique.