Saint Laurent. Spring 2020 RTW - Paris Fashion Week.

(Images from the designer and the public domain. Credited to the 

photographer/company where applicable: Gorunway.com )

Fashion, as far as promotion is about excess and opulence within its exclusive realms, particularly the runway show.  Yves Saint Laurent was a master in the presentation of his creations, the extravagance at staging the play was part of the act, to which Anthony Vaccarello, who now is four years in as the new creative director for Saint Laurent, has not let up the unrelenting and unapologetic sex appeal of his collections for the famed fashion house.  He's remain in step with Laurent's vision, as much as reworking the precedence of the brand, which he has achieved with no less than a finesse. 

But, despite Laurent's wealth as a company, it still offers a precision in preparation and execution of a runway show.  Yes, they have more money than you and I, so it would be unforgivable if the brand couldn't top last season, yet, the lesson here for budding designers, even with a smaller budget is the professionalism in setting down a benchmark that is on display. Although, opulence can run simultaneously against hypocrisy, which is interesting to note.  As runway shows begin to embrace catchphrase and sloganeering – with Climate Change front and center for all the fashion weeks so far, the attributed beliefs, even with sincerity are sourced within the privilege.  For Saint Laurent's Spring 2020 showing, 394 search lights beamed upward as a prelude to the show.  As they rain fell in Paris, Saint Laurent's 'carbon footprint' was felt around the world.  There was no compromising here.

Vaccarello has keep in line with the major trend of the last four years, which is the blazer as a humble nod of respect to its multi faceted use in fashion. Which, by its aesthetics remains as a formal fixture of style, without it being overly duplicated into an urban look. Vaccarello has mixed three separate decades of Laurent's brilliance, the 1970s, 1980s and 1990s.  Mostly focused on the 70's and 80's with the rise (and fall) that was the last two past decades of the supermodel, embracing a charged, as mentioned, sex appeal, whilst maintaining the exclusivity.  Vaccarello has taken Laurent's couture inspired concepts and added large doses of hedonism.  Seen, mostly attributed to its sensualist backdrop, is Yves Saint Laurent's famous 1976 and 1977 “Russian” collection, a slathering of decorative prints, silk and brocade flowing styles.  However it is the high cropped shorts that is now a favorite accessory to compliment Vaccarello's Laurent styles.  

Saint Lauren's Spring 2020 collection is so decadent and intensely seductive, Vaccarello has kept the visually pleasing styles on full throttle and it appears  he is not letting up.  With Naomi Campbell a supermodel icon from the 90's closing the show.  Vaccarello's take on Saint Laurent's decadence and hedonistic intensity, maybe a needed wedge between the strange redux embrace of stuffy 1950s conservatism and wayward 21st Century sensibilities.  However, as a nostalgia strip of indulgence it may run its course as a reflection of past glories.