Kiko Kostadinov. Spring 2020 RTW - London Fashion Week

(Images from the designer and the public domain. Credited to the 

photographer/company where applicable: Gorunway.com )

Laura and Deanna Fanning continue on with modernist and sleek women's ensembles which has become the recognized hallmark of the Kiko Kostadinov brand. For their latest collection the sisters have offered a more tailored and compressed array rather than the avant garde styles of previous seasons.  Although they have maintained with the mythical trompe-l'oeil as a foreordain of the Kostadinov template, with their Spring 2020 Ready-to-Wear exploring the rare and esoteric illustration books of a parallel Universe and its strange, yet seemingly recognizable flora drawn from Leo Lionni's “Parallel Botany” (1976) very similar to the mysterious “The Codex Seraphinianus” (Luigi Serrafinin 1981) and Italo Calvino's “Invisible Cities” (1972).  Which in their similarity explore the possibilities of parallel environments, both natural and man-made from an alternative Earth, to which the authors posed the question that what maybe dissimilar visually, could also evoke dreamlike manifestations – that these parallel worlds could also hold a relevancy of similarities. 

So, for Kiko Kostadinov Spring 2020 showing of all the past trends that have emerged in the last five years, more so 50's, 70's 80's and 90's. It is refreshing, despite the rewind, to see the 1960s aesthetics utilized.  Yet, the Fanning's have merged the future-that-never-was 1950s styles onto 60's esoteric hippies from an alternative time line with the cultist apparel of a feminine subculture.  Universal spirals assist in displaying the oracle like appeal as hanging accessories and ornaments (created by the UK artist Rosie Ward).  As mentioned, the collection is cleaner and less extravagant in concept ideas as past collections, the color palette stays within the industrial designers tones of the early 1980s – which reinstates the modernist feel, so there is no postmodern expose.  Very much orientated towards the manifestation and consumption of ideas within its associated trends.  Whether the Fanning's under Kiko Kostadinov can move their idealisms into a broader appeal is disputable, yet, the band is also affixed with the multinational sports label Asics for its lifeblood of capital and since I have reviewed a many Kostadinov's prior seasons, the collaboration is one of an absolute necessity. Particularly due to the fact that as an independent brand, Kostadinov styles in reflection are aimed at a very niche audience.