Max Mara. Spring 2020 RTW - Milan Fashion Week (overview)

(Images from the designer and the public domain. Credited to the 

photographer/company where applicable: Gorunway.com )

On reflection this is quite an odd collection from Ian Griffith, as a backdrop to his stellar Fall 2019 showing in Berlin this year, in contrast the Milan Spring 2020 collection for Max Mara can only be defined as a strange mix of homogeneous, East European, dominatrix cold war uniformity mixed with militaristic styles or trends from 2018 and 2019.  Of course, it was known that he referenced the mini series Killing Eve as an influence for his Max Mara 2020 Ready-to-Wear styles, also quoting pre show, the writer of Killing Eve: Phoebe Waller-Bridge who, according to Griffith is on a mission to clean up James Bond (she will be writing the script).  There seems to be obsession in reworking pop culture icons from the 1980s, with the ivory tower crusade that may or may not widen or close the schism of  gender divisiveness.  Exhausting tirades, as both sides of the culture war, pitifully duke it out.  Either way it is all about chasing markets to which costume design for many fashion designers is another ace up the sleeve. 

However, the collection overall is far too serious for its own good, which is a shame as there are moments of finery that get stamped back by its straight laced uniformity.  If there was any irony here, it would be to create a equalized appeal and still remain tough. Instead in an overdone way Griffith's theme of a secret agent affair comes across rigid and plain, all the while he has placed his Spring 2020 array into top gear with a rapid runway display that from all perspectives appears, unintentionally comical. 

As mention there are very few stands outs, some interesting cuts and pattern work on a handful of the dresses, full length slip inspired  La Garçonne styles somewhat work, but are rarely worn with any finesse.