Rag & Bone. Spring 2020 RTW - New York Fashion Week

(Images from the designer and the public domain. Credited to the photographer/company where applicable: Gorunway.com)

Marcus Wainwright the founder of Rag & Bone since he stepped down in 2018 as the CEO of the company he founded, has been on a sort of hiatus, returning from what seemed as an indefinite sabbatical, could have been the indication of creative burnout.  With fashion markets in a lot of ways facing turmoil as they are desperate to realign with trends and newer markets, the major financial backers of high end fashion may be pulling back from consumption – which is the Chinese and it has nothing to do with the so called trade war.  It maybe understandable that creative burnout on the prelude of falling sales can take its toll. Yet, with Wainwright's return he wanted to invigorate the setting from the predicable runway stylization to something a little more unique.  That and he has an English sense of humor with its sprinkles of sarcasm, that in all retrospection, since the brand is based in America more so New York, the locals may not get it.  Regardless Wainwright has returned to present his latest Rag & Bone Spring 2020 Ready-to-Wear collection.  

As mentioned in previous show reviews, the Thrift store looks are now solidifying as the trend of 2020.  How this holds up moving into the new year is another story, as the reliant aspect of the trend is the designer look, mixed against other 'looks' which is going to be very tricky and only a skilled designer will be able to offer a complete outfit of the similar style, not only will that be a challenge, but Thrift stores when offering visual merchandising, will not combine outfits (they need to offer a spread of styles on offer), so fashion essentially, and this could be a good aspect in someways, is beginning to break down.  Which may push designers online and remove the retail concept as a flagship icon, while under the shadow of an emerging Thrift shop trend is fine, but in tandem there will be the ascending costs and overheads.  Profits will have to made on volume.  Whilst consumers begin to lower purchases to only second hand buying, this maybe a problem for the Thrift and Recycled clothing shops, more so if the sporadic luxury items become less and less.  Interesting times.

But, fine tailoring will survive everything and that is the most important factor in fashion design. What could offset all these so called predicaments in fashion will be the return of couture.  Not just as a seasonal range, but as a discipline One off pieces that are special and skilfully created. I feel, despite Wainwright's Spring collection playing around with the 'down town' New York City styles.  The quality and presentation of Rag & Bone's new collection is outstanding.  Clean and defined lineation, sleek and balanced in perspectives. It my have the recycled or Thrift styles that are the current trend, however Wainwright, in his latest showing has offered a innovative tune to the mix.