Gucci. Spring 2020 RTW - Milan Fashion Week

(Images from the designer and the public domain. Credited to the 

photographer/company where applicable: Gorunway.com )

The obsession with the 1990s marches on in 2020, in discerning why there is such a fascination, particularly with the aesthetics of the time could be put down to a couple of reasons; 1.  It was a era of entrepreneurial dreams or at least the illusion of aspiration pre the internet.  Everyone knew it was on its way, so there was a lot of wishful startups, all readying for the beginning of a digital age.  In that sense it was new and exciting time.  With what seemed like limitless possibilities.  2.    It felt safer.  Terrorism was not a constant news item and global trade was mostly tourism via airplane trips to Europe and the rest of the world.  The European Union was in its infancy and there was no smart phones.  However, the whole dream blew up in 1999 when the tech bubble collapsed, thus decimating the entrepreneurial aspirations, three years later after September 11 2001 occurred, the Middle East erupted and old tensions between the East and West flared again.  Nealy 20 years on, confusion reigns on many fronts whilst we await the 'new' cold war to be called.  Held loosely together via intentional trade agreements with China and Russia. 

Alessandro Michele for Gucci has slammed ahead a show piece of experimentation that, well, yes is somewhat in reference re: his press notes and intention to represent the "1990s". However, it seems less fashion wise as a benchmark, but more so a reflection of that era runway excesses – this is a stage show of avant garde dramatics that if anything holds a resonation to Comme des Garçons early 90's brilliance.  He set the tone, for 110 pieces, to which 21 (the start of the collection) of these were all white, linen, draped avant garde styles with Rei Kawakobu's imprint all over them.  The rest of the collection was a mishmash, albeit clever, of late 1970s and 1980s stylization.  With a nod to one of the subtle emerging trends of 2020, which is styled lingerie pieces recut into outfits – when orchestrated with finesse, works.  For the most part Michele's Spring 2020 collection for Gucci, is no less than a superb performance.  There is a smart irony portrayed here.  Why not?  If costs permit, which obviously they do and everyone loves Gucci, then all the power to relay a collection that is intellectually based for its latest Ready-to-Wear ensemble.  

The other trend, which has become more prolific on the runway, which has formed since 2018 is 1950s modernism styles, which I suspect is to meliorate the 90's avant garde trend of the last 20+ years.  So, the asymmetrical and off-cuts are disappearing, replaced by cleaner and more tailored looks. Michele has also touched upon this with his latest offering. It is clean and defined, casual power play dressing with a designer label tag. Possibly aimed at the post graduates, that despite their wanning sensibilities, do like designer pieces to mix and match a thrift shop buy.  

Even though Michele decreed that he wanted to loosen the Gucci reigns, the collection overall has a conservative feel.  Which, once again, is hard to define the 1990s trend within this collection. There was a cheap appeal in some of the styles of that era, which, in my opinion, would be difficult to market, despite the interest in 90's street, sports wear styles. Apart, as mentioned earlier, an interest from its societal perspective.