Linder. Spring 2020 RTW - New York Fashion Week

(Images from the designer and the public domain. Credited to the photographer/company where applicable: Gorunway.com )

It's great to see Linder return with its blunt sex appeal, in lieu of his striking Spring 2018 show, as of late creative director Sam Linder had since pulled back from the tough seductive plays, with the last seasons establishing more tailored styles.  For his Spring 2020 Ready-to-Way array, Linder's reactive cues have heightened and sprung back, with his backlogged fine tailoring now shining through – Linder's latest collection has up the ante of his sensualist tension on the runway.  Breaking down the styles into a rawer and more leaner concept, stripping it back to fabric and form, rather than overlaying, he has kept it open and free flowing.  

Thigh high splits, skin tight pants, creative prints, revealing plunged v necks with breezy unfastened blazers and coats.  Fine wools, linen and quality synthetics. There is a maturity of the more styled looks, mixed with a street feel.  It works, because Linder has simplified the expression.  Keeping his latest designs grounded and focused, without losing the momentum of the theme.  

The asymmetrical cuts of past shows, have been replaced by more of a modernism influence and precision styling, this has, finally, elements of 1960s influence ala Pierre Cardin's neofuturist styles. Which have been somewhat overlooked in light of the current trend of 90's garishness.  However, Linder has maintain a relevancy to the collections feel, embracing the sexy appeal of 60's and 70's hedonism updating it with a sombre 21st Century demeanor – enveloped in a muted and dulled color range, with splashes of modernist yellows, orange, blues and reds.