Dion Lee. Spring 2020 RTW - New York Fashion Week

(Images:  Dion Lee 2019)

With the Thrift looks gaining momentum as the trend for 2020, since 2016 through to 2019 there has been a stalwart mix of (on the runways) of utility, mountaineering, militaristic and post city collapse styles or better known as dystopian wear.  Intermixed with the re-cut blazer and coat styles, that have since morphed into a less asymmetrical, rustic and futuristic arrays, evolving towards a cleaner and more modernist styled appeal. This transfer from the manifestations of avant garde stylization to modernist aesthetics has literally occurred within a few seasons.  Which in turn has portrayed bespoke tailoring as the main benchmark of fitted aesthetics, overtaking the draped and as mentioned urban gothic inspired looks.  

Dion Lee for Spring 2020, has delivered his Ready-to-Wear collection relaying it back to the utility and militaristic styles fused onto the modernists tune.  Lee's tailoring is top tier, so the lineations are evenly contrasted and distinctly orchestrated, despite him offering a sentiment that the collection holds a unisex appeal, it does, but once again, as noted when designers often say this, it is characterized in one direction – towards the feminine.  Particularly modernist styles which help align the overall collection within an even balance.  Whilst his men's pieces have a masculine allure, pared together with Lee's female glamour, it fits perfectly.  

As seen with other Spring 2020 showings, the sex appeal of lingerie stylizations could be a forming trend.  Which maybe seen as the influence of the mix and match styles manifesting on the runways, except without it being outwardly gaudy – their is a sophistication and intelligence portrayed in Lee's styles.  Variations of the seductive appeal of garter belts with his latest collection has been touched on before via Jean Paul Gautier's 80's and 90's runway excess, although in retrospection it only offered, for its time, an ostentatious indulgence.  The sexual aspect to Lee's Spring array seems more defiant, tough and resilient. 

Lee has collaborated with Fleet IIya, the leather goods brand, to promote his overlay of leather bras and corsets. Intertwined as one set pieces, very modern and sleekly presented styles.  Thigh high slit dresses, boots suspenders and knee high tights.  As mentioned, garter belts are either affixed or dangle from the models waists.  The color palette maintains the achromatic of white and black, distinguished both in the men's and women's styles, so the duality has been removed.  Also seen are dark green, burnt orange, pink and reds. 

 Dion Lee has packed in a tough, focused and erotically charged collection for his Spring 2020 showing. 

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(A.Glass 2019)