A-Cold-Wall. Menswear Spring 2023

(Images:  A-Cold-Wall)

There was a runway trend of the last 5 years, at least for the men's collections, which was the utility, outwear styles that came to its forte in 2018, with Samael Ross's and his label A-Cold-Wall leading the charge of redefining street wear as a more structured and architecturally inspired affair, pleaser refer to my Spring 2019 review of A-Cold-Wall debut show.   And Ross has proven to be formidable designer in staying the course, in laying own his own avant-garde template of these urban inspired utility styles.  

Of late, in lieu of the pandemic and the restructuring of society in general, certain trends, like outwear styles have somewhat fallen to the wayside.  As a darker more gothic inclination has returned to the runways, which is probably symbolizing the turmoil which our world and societies have developed into, be it new virus outbreaks, economic inflation, climate change and the possibility that a new Cold War has emerged.  Yet, utility and rugged urban styles hold that fervent dystopian imprint, in all of its its appeal, despite the negative connotations of a societal collapse, of survival. 

Ross' Spring 2023 collection keeps in step with his previous collections, yet his latest array offers a more tailored approach, which is probably his maturing of the A-Cold-Wall brand, whilst promoting his ability to showcase his designer prowess.  As he has recently begun a collaboration with Timberland.  So, elements of Ross's edge and rawer styles have been evened out for his latest collection.  And at 14 pieces, it certainly very much feels like a promotional lookbook presentation.   

However, I look forward to Ross's return to those broken dystopias, fractured structures and urban wastelands which made his past collections so interesting.