EXCERPT: SAINT LAURENT. PRE-FALL 2024 - PARIS


 "...Yet, as the creative director of Saint Laurent and his flirtation with the eros, and that sexual allure of the casual tryst, I do feel there has always been a darker element to Vaccarello's romanticism of the 70s and 80s.  Which I've noted from my previous reviews of his collections over the years, that may allude to the restless spirits who are indeed part of the many boulevards of broken dreams.  That is because the past is of the dark, as we move into the light.  Whether metaphor or not, if one is to continue looking into the past to be inspired and even rejuvenated by it, we may end up disturbing what does not want to be disturbed.  Or fail to learn from the lessons of past resonation.  Unless, we do show respect and homage, to which most spiritual practices within their core do actualize.  At the end of the day, it should be let go. 

Vaccarello to a degree has achieved this, with his reworking of the sybaritic that was the tailend of post World War Two countercultures.  As the 1960s paved the way for its amorous overdrive that was the 1970s, when the equality movements laid down the groundwork for sexual liberation, which was embraced with a fervor.  Vaccarello's drawing out of the intensity of the era, before it began its decline in the mid-80s, is very much showing up with his recent collections.  The styles have become a lot more sheer and revealing, touching upon, what fellow Belgium and 70s icon Diane Von Furstenberg's 'Studio 54' confessionals entailed, of dancing and, at the end of the night, sex with a stranger esque flows..." 

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Full review:  chiasmusmagazine.blogspot.com/2024/07/saint-laurent-pre-fall-2024-paris.html

(A.Glass 2024) 

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