From the chiasmus archive: "Raeburn. Spring 2023 - Copenhagen Fashion Week."

 

"The U.K. fashion designer Christopher Raeburn has proven to be that ultimate reuser of materials, reminding us of the waste that the fashion industry creates.  And included within this wastage of mountains of discarded clothing and fabrics are the durable and functional utility wears, from essential service workers, through to the $2 Trillion dollar a year military complex.   To which Raeburn predominantly sources for his collections, that being the military and utility surplus materials.  With a fascination in militaristic technology, having leant to fly as an Air Cadent when he was younger.   Raeburn's awareness of the diuturnal and tough materials used in army and airforce uniforms and technology, has been instilled with  renewed ethos for his Spring 2023 collection.

This is Raeburn's first runway show since 2019, skipping the pandemic, like everyone else, while resorting only to a lookbooks for his RAEMADE collection, which utilized the U.K. army's Disruptive Pattern Material (DPM) ala desert camouflage design, pieced together by the indispensable waterproof material Gortex.  Raeburn was able to meld an outwear look onto a military-esque urban aesthetic, akin to 1990s street wear styles.  Although the styles from the RAEMADE lookbook were limited in scale, Raeburn's Spring 2023 collection has returned to its more stylized and extensive forms, in representing of his sustainable looks..."

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(A.Glass 2022)

Full review:  chiasmusmagazine.blogspot.com/2022/08/raeburn-spring-2023-copenhagen-fashion.html