R13 - Spring 2025

 

(Images: R13 2024)

I have an endearing soft spot for Chris Leba's R13, with his nostalgically inspired rebellious late 20th Century fashion, who can not like the late 1970s and early 1980s New York City romanticism, with all its grit, grime and punk rock ethos.   Yes, before the 2000s gentrification of 'No Standing' signs glued onto fake brink façades, and subsequently falling off (I saw this occur with bemusement recently, only to see the sign fall off again, and then sticky tape used to affix it again!)  21st Century prefabrication, in all of its glory.

Rock historians may argue what country Punk originated from, and who could be deemed the instigator of 'Punk' fashion.  But, one cannot deny the impact the late U.K. fashion designer Vivienne Westwood had on Punk styles throughout the late 70s onto the 80s.  When tartan and safety pins were first seen on the catwalk of Paris Fashion Weeks, at the heyday of Westwood's tenure.

And while we all await for the next counter culture (are we?) which has yet to materialize, sans the simulacrums of past inspiration, there is probably nothing wrong from opening up the pages of history to study what actually did work in those brief moments in time.  With Two decades of 1950s esque middle class suburbia ala mortgages and Netflix (it used to be DVD players), we are long overdue for something to change.  As our society is swinging precariously towards the far right of politics, just look at Europe.  So, this illusive counter culture better get into gear, for now we just have to wait and see.  Why not do this, while dressing for the part?  And Leba's R13 may offer that attire for romanticizing, our once beloved rebellious aesthetic.

For R13's Spring 2025 collection, which was revealed at Leba's studio in SoHo, it certainly feels more stripped back than previous showings, ala the eros and amourous stylizations are peaking through.   And this trend of sexually charged hedonism, although I wouldn't say Leba's latest collection is aligned with the carnal per se, appears to be one of the current trends post-2020 pandemic.  Leba has mixed in his edgy and sexy Punk vibes, with flower prints.  And roses are very Punk rock, a fragrant smelling flower with its aggressive looking thorns.

Can the next counter culture offer a much needed fuck you?  As noted with Leba's slogan on the waistlines of R13 underwear be it his, "Fuck You, You Fucking Fuck", to a stagnated society, while placing flowers down gun barrels?  

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(A.Glass 2024)