Excerpt: Rick Owens. menswear Spring 2025 - Paris Fashion Week.

 

"If you have read my reviews of Rick Owens shows during the Pandemic, which were held at Lido beach,Venice, and post the Pandemic, when he and his wife Michèle Lamy arrived back to Paris, you would note that the once Los Angeles resident, had inscribed his apocalyptic oracles, or the Doomsday Witches, with an offering that was paradoxically a warning, not to be too overconfident.  As these dark times, have just begun, the pandemic was the First part, may there be also a Second, and Third act of calamity.  Hence the models adoring stygian contact lenses, absorbing all light into their void eyes.  Owens collections to date have been no less than a visionary horror show, yet as a reviewer of over a decade of Owens's show pieces, the contrarian aspects of his cult like fixtures have revealed elements of pacification, maybe the need for a structural identity. 

Which, even in Doom, holds an appeal.  The spiritual foundation of reverence, that is found in most theocratic religions.  Tombs, and brooding structures, from the Egyptian pyramids, to the ancient Greek and Roman cities, all pay homage to the omnipotence, as mere mortals.  Owens, after using his and Lamy's home in Paris for his Fall menswear, and Ready-to-Wear 2024 collections, for his Spring 2025 array, has returned to his beloved Palais de Tokyo.  A 1937 monolith, designed in classic Art Deco style, which very much conjures that post World War One romanticism within its Temple like presence..."

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Full review:  chiasmusmagazine.blogspot.com/2024/06/rick-owens-menswear-spring-2025-paris.html

(A.Glass 2024)

Spring 2025 Ready-to-Wear review soon.